'Singin' in the Rain'

I started writing this post back in June, aaaannd... I have finally gotten (Is that a word?) around to showing you.

I made another Renfrew!  Did I mention how much I love this pattern.  Oh. Yes. That's right.  I did.  Well I made another one.  The first one was so easy to sew I made a second one immediately after.  I wanted long sleeves this time around and was thinking of using a cotton t-shirt knit in a solid colour but when I saw this jumper knit in my stash it called out "Pick me! Pick me!"  I've had this fabric for a couple of years now waiting to find the right pattern and this was it.

This is my first attempt at sewing with a jumper knit which in itself wasn't too bad.  Being a lacy knit the fabric was very loose and stretchy and I feared it would stretch out of shape.  It did a little around the band on the body, however it didn't really seem to anywhere else.  I'm still worried that it will lose it's shape when I wash it though.  Mmm... we'll have to wait and see, I guess!

I know as sewists that we are always learning new things and the first thing I learnt with this project is that I really need to buy some T pins, U pins or at least something that will stay put in lace type fabrics.  I've only got regular dressmaking pins and it was a nightmare getting them to stay put while I was assembling this top.  Marking notches was an absolute waste of time too, I couldn't see where they were so I just went with it and matched the seams as best I could given the amount of stretch I was working with.  So the second thing I learnt - I need to use different methods of marking.  How do you pin and mark your lace fabrics?  Any helpful hints for sewing lacy fabrics would be gratefully accepted and appreciated.

The end result.  I still love the Renfrew pattern, it's easy to sew and the fit is fabulous even in this stretchy knit fabric.  I do like the colour and the appearance of the fabric but not the fabric itself so much.  Another plus, I can count this towards my Stashbusting goal which is going along slowly and it also fills my Sewlutions in the Jar commitment, neither of which is being fulfilled completely but at least it's keeping me sewing.  Yay!!

The sun was out the morning these photos were taken but by the time I got around to taking them it had started to rain.  Then the inevitable happened, I started dancing around like Gene Kelly and Debbie Reynolds in the 1952 musical 'Singin' in the Rain' so I leave you with a few snaps of me being silly :-)

Feelin' a bit snake-y

I finished making this top a few weeks ago after I gave you a sneak peak and I finally got some photos so I could share what I was working on.

This is the second time I've made Vogue 8649, the first time I made up this pattern I was less than satisfied with the fit.  Around the time I was making it Shams and Robin had written letters to the Big four pattern companies (I'm sure you would have read them) voicing some of the issues we sewists have in regard to the way their patterns fit.  Weeeell... I must say that I wholeheartedly agree with them!!

This particular pattern is designed to custom fit for your individual cup size and the first time I made it I followed Vogue's directions to calculate the correct size.  I'm a DD and according to the instructions for taking my measurements I should be making the size for a C cup, which I did.  I know the pattern is designed for the inclusion of shoulder pads, which  BTW I don't really care for, but since when is 'gridiron armour' classed as fashion wear?  It's the only way the C cup sizing would have fitted me.  I mean, really, what the...?

Fortunately I decided that had the top fit me I did actually like it so thought I'd give it another go and make it with the three quarter sleeve.  I had bought a few great knits a couple of weeks ago and this one was perfect.  A great combination of colours and a fabulous animal print.

Having decided to make another one, if I wanted this one to fit me better then some alterations were in order.  To remove the excess fabric would be difficult with the kimono style sleeve so I started by checking if there was a finished bust measurement on the pattern.  Yes!  Great!  Checked this against my measurements and the amount of ease I like and decided to go with the A cup fitting.  This reduced the front length more in line with how I like my clothes to fit. But what about the back you ask?  That's a good question.  I laid the front pattern piece over the back piece and found that I needed a size 10 for the length and a size 14 in width.  I traced off a new pattern piece using the 10 at the shoulder and the 14 at the underarm.  The lower section was a good fit so no alterations here.

Back view - no excess fabric. Yay!

Now it's not that I'm saying I'm perfect but I think I'm a fairly average sized person so why did I need to make these alterations Vogue?  Please explain!

Sleeve shaping
Ignore my muffin top made by freshly washed jeans - this is about the top

Needless to say after making these alterations to remove the excess fabric I'm really happy with the way it turned out the second time around.  I'll get a lot of wear out of this one and it's perfect for my new job.

What about you, do you need to make such drastic alterations to get a good fit?





Details:
Top; Vogue 8649, my review of this pattern here
Jeans; Just Jeans
Shoes; Wittner

Grey on a not so grey day

It's been so cold and wet here lately I've been waiting for some decent weather to wear my new hoodie and finally we got some last weekend.  I wanted something I could wear for those cooler days of Autumn, something that will wear well with layers or just on it's own and Kwik Sew 3667 was exactly what I was looking for.  Over the last couple of years I've been trying to add some colour to my clothes but this time I felt the need for something a little less interesting, a neutral.  The kind of colour I feel the most comfortable in and works with most everything else.  I didn't want a dark colour and thought a light grey fleece would be perfect but then I found this jersey knit which looks and feels very similar to a ponte knit, in this grey, kinda beige...let's call it a greige colour and I love it.

It was so quick and very, very easy to make up.  It took an afternoon of interrupted sewing to make.  The most difficult part was...oh, yes, that's right, there wasn't anything difficult about it unless you want to count threading up three machines difficult.  Well, yeah that was!  What is it with overlockers not wanting to play nicely?  I really like the loose and simple styling of this pattern and even though I like to dress casually I don't normally wear this kind of thing, I prefer something more fitted, however I can see myself wearing it often as it's so comfortable and will probably make it up again.  Don't worry though, I wont be getting into tracky dacks any time soon; they are definitely NOT my thing.  I can see myself wearing it with a straight skirt too.  That might be my next project...

Good old Aussie fly's; see the one on my arm, they stick to you like glue!

Details:
Hoodie; Kwik Sew 3667, view A
Top; Suzanne Grae 
Jeans; Just Jeans
Shoes; Nike



My review of this pattern:


Pattern Description:
Pullovers have a double wide waistband.  View A has wide three-quarter length sleeves, kangaroo pocket and hood.  View B has boat neckline, extended shoulders, deep armholes finished with narrow hems.

Pattern Sizing:
XS - XL.  I made size S.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, very easy. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I particularly like that this pattern was so quick and easy to sews.  The only dislike I had was the all over amount of ease and too much gathering at the waistband.

Fabric Used:
I used a double knit jersey, similar in weight and feel to a Ponte knit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the length by 6cm and the sleeve length by 2.5cm.  Because I made a smaller size than I would normally make due to the amount of ease this pattern had I also added some width on the waistband to fit my hip which also reduced the amount of gathering.  After seeing the photos; the pocket comes up too high so if I make it again I would shorten the pocket as well.

Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?
It's not a style I usually wear so probably not but I would definitely recommend it for others.

Conclusion:
I found this top to be a super quick and easy pattern to sew.  It was very comfortable to wear even though I prefer more fitted styles so if it's a style you would wear I suggest you consider trying it.

Goodnight; sleep tight

After my last post, I must say I was really itching to get some sewing done.  Actually, I've been feeling this way for a while, but time has been a scarce commodity of late.  Anyhoo, I wanted a nice quick project to get me going and at the same time I wanted to work on my stash. 

With the weather cooling down quite a bit at night recently I found I was in desperate need of some new winter pj's, several pairs actually.  I found the perfect piece of fabric; a piece of flannelette I've had for around 12 months bought especially to make some pajamas.  I laid it out; placed my pattern on... oh no! Not enough fabric.  I know I'm short but what was I thinking when I bought it; must've been having a senior moment, duh!  Everyone does that don't they?  No?  Oh well...!  I couldn't be bothered trying to figure out how to make it work so back it goes and another search ensues resulting in more flannelette.  Now this fabric, also bought for pj's, has been in the stash for...I dunno, maybe 10 - 15 years.  I bought it back in a previous sewing life.  Will there be enough this time?  Oh I hope so, I really want to get sewing.  The fabric was so skinny I wasn't sure I could use this one either.   Luckily I could.  

The pattern I used is Simplicity 7071 and I've had it even longer than the fabric.  I didn't want just plain pj's, I wanted to do something a little different and I've got an old pair with a faux fly front so I copied the idea and just eyeballed the shape.  I didn't get it quite right but it's not bad.  It'll do, after all they're just pajamas, right?

They went together so quickly and easily I thought what the heck, I can make the other fabric work so out it came again and I ended up with this pair as well.  Pattern matching was a nightmare (no pun intended. He he!)  It's a printed pattern not a woven one and it wasn't straight so with the shortage of fabric I didn't get too fussy.   I added an unfilled piping and a band around the bottom of the leg to get the length I needed.  For the tops; what do you like?  I like the comfort of t-shirt tops and I'm just using some old ones that are being downgraded.

I'm pretty happy with that. Two items in one week - yay!  I also reckon this qualifies as my stashbusting for the month too, maybe even sewlutions.  Now I can sleep in warmth and comfort.

Good night; sleep tight!

In the jar - a vintage skirt

One item down, eleven to go!  Yes, my Sewlutions commitment to make at least one item per month is actually achieving the desired effect.  To get me sewing again.  Made in a navy Bengaline Suiting fabric which I've had in my stash for about six months, my first make for 2013 is finished.  I finished it a week ago and I'm only just getting round to posting about it now.

I really shouldn't do that wash'n'wear look with my hair - terrible!

The pattern; a simple 6 gore vintage skirt pattern that was my mothers.  I'm not sure what the vintage is, but I think it's around late 1940s or 1950s.   I'd love it if anyone can tell me.  It's Australian Home Journal pattern #12158.

Having never used a vintage pattern before I found it to be a very interesting experience.  Never doubting for a moment, I opened the packet and found all four pattern pieces inside and in very good condition.  There were slight tears in the edges of all pieces as you would expect considering its age and a piece of tape mending a little tear in one.  What surprised me was the fact that there were no instructions just the layout diagram on the envelope which as you can see on the left, is very faded.  Now, I know that the free patterns you get with the magazine have the instructions in the magazine but I think this is a purchased one.  Meeh... I don't need instructions, it's a six gore skirt and I've made them before.  It'll be easy.

Luckily I read the packet first as it turned out that seam allowances were NOT included.  The pattern is an unmarked pattern so I'm like, where's the straight grain?  The two center panels are on the fold, not a problem.  Guess I'll just eyeball the other two pieces.  I think I got it right because the skirt hangs well as you can see.

I chose this pattern because it has no waistband and being short in the waist this is my best option for skirts.  My biggest problem with no waistband and no instructions was how should I finish the waist.  I remembered that mum had often used petersham (the real stuff, not the grosgrain ribbon often used nowadays) when I was young, so I decided to try that.  Well, that was stupid!!  With the zipper in the side, I had been taught the correct way to insert it was to do a lapped zip.  So I did.  Turns out it's almost impossible to finish the petersham on the inside at the zip opening and anyway it was sooo... scratchy I ripped it out removed it and made a facing, which by the way is not finished well inside at the zipper either, but at least it doesn't scratch me.

Knowing that vintage patterns are less roomy than modern ones I didn't trim the seam allowances in case it was a bit tight leaving me with plenty of room to let it out.  The sizing on the pattern fitted me perfectly and being the lazy person I am I left those seam allowances in :)  The only alteration I made was to shorten the length by approximately 10cm then I took a 2cm hem which wasn't allowed for.   Because of the new length I styled it with a modern t-shirt and cardigan instead of going for a vintage look.  If I make this skirt again I will insert an invisible zipper and make a longer length to style it in a more vintage way.


Details:
Skirt; Australian Home Journal # 12158
T-shirt; Target - years ago
Cardigan; Target also years old.